Will Reviews Modern Lager Wed, Jun 12, 24 Modern Lager by Jack Hendler and Joe Connolly, is a must-read for lager aficionados and brewers alike. Jack Hendler is the Jack of Jack’s Abby, one of the most prevalent and ground-breaking lager breweries on the East Coast. Informed by his research, brewing experience, and conversations with the who’s-who of lager, he discusses the state of the art in clear terms. The book's big theme is process - as Will Kemper from Chuckanut Brewing puts it “[lager] is the sum of subtle considerations. If you add all these slight things up, you make better beer”. The details different breweries focus on are telling, and reading this book while drinking a variety of lagers is illuminating (and delicious). For instance, Schilling Beer Co. “manage up to six different lager strains. Because they believe that fermentation is the key to the unique character of their beers, they commit to designing fermentation profiles, pitch rates, and other aspects tailored to each strain”. This attention to detail is clear with their huge range of historically informed lagers. “Modern” is the operative word here. There are deep-dives on historical processes (things like decoction mashing, of course, but also stein beers, coolshipping, and open ferments). These aren't fetishized as an idealized technique from the past but examined for flavor contributions and usefulness in the brewhouse. OEC Brewery is used as an example, looking at how their Coolship is used to brew lagers. Many of B-United’s imports are also discussed, including Braurei Hofstadtn’s Granitbock. The author, as a brewer himself, is able to draw on Jack’s Abby beers to illustrate some technical points. For instance, the impact of multiple decoctions on beer color is accompanied with tech specs on an array of Jack’s beers.This combination of theory and praxis makes the info in this book especially useful. The recipe section at the end of the book is a homebrewer’s dream. There are recipes from some of the best lager brewers in the world (Pfriem, Weihenstephan, Bierstadt Lagerhaus, East Rock, Highland Park, Human Robot, and of course Jack's Abby). I'll certainly be referring to this book in the future, and anyone who drinks or brews lager should read it immediately. Stop at any Provisions shop for an assortment of modern and classic lagers to really immerse yourself in beer culture and knowledge.-Will Find a selection of Lagers here Will Romey is a beer afficianado and writer (and former Provisions employee) who can be found on both sides of bars around the Pioneer Valley, including Honest Weight Brewery and Le Peacock. He's working on a guide to the beer and breweries of the Pioneer Valley, and aspires towards being obnoxiously well-read. By Sarah Galgano
